Doosans are awesome machines. I have been around them for about 10 years and can't think of a single service call I have had to make. The one horizonatal I was around at one shop I worked at about 2 years ago they beat on this thing shredding huge parts that were 3 times the weight of what the machine was supposed to be able to handle and it was still no problem. On the verticals I was around they had M codes so when a safety zone was missed and the tool carousel got jammed they are super easy to reset through MDI. Guess that really shouldn't be a selling feature but we all know chit happens from time to time and the easier it is to clean the chit the better.

lol looks like my shop. Not sure if this makes you fel any better but I climb a ladder to my office because I had to cut out the stairs to fit a mill in. Thankfully we just got the permits to move to a bigger location. Building is picked out and we get it Oct 1. I got the permit on friday now the race is on to get the electrical in building layed out. movers in place air installed and to pack everything up. This shop is maybe 1200 sq feet the new one is just over 5000 but I also am taking over 2 sink edms 2 surface grinders and a radial arm drill.

Someone posted a macro that will work in a okuma to track and report time. Post 18 http://www.emastercam.com/board/index.php?showtopic=73901&hl=%2Bwhat+%2Bmacros

+1 he explained what I was trying to say a lot better.

If you are getting a step using contour with tapered walls with your tool defined as a chamfer mill. It is because your tool is bent. I went through this a couple months ago with 2 of the exact same machines running the exact same program and was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why one part was perfect and the other was chit.

But the inserts are interchangable within the cutter body. Just swap the insert and go to the next size. Another benefit is the multi point is they are full form no need to bore the minor to size the threadmill will do both the minor and major for you which saves a lot of time when the guage doesn't fit in figuring out whether it is the tool that did the minor the one that did the thread.

Is there a reason for using a single point? It would be a lot faster with a multi point. Personally I like Iscar and Vardex for my inserted threading tools. If you go to there website they have a interactive page you tell them the specs and they suggest the best cutter. When you select the cutter tell it the control you are using and it will generate a program for you that you can cut and paste into your nc editor software.

Run the same part on both machines see which performs better for you. Atleast then you can see it for your own eyes and be better informed before making the purchase.

We just signed on for a new Okuma on monday. It will be the first okuma control in our shop. I was leasry about putting one in as opposed to going with a machine with a different control then what we have now which is all Fanuc (minus our haas which is very similiar to the fanuc). If I were you I would not take a salesmans word but instead have him take you to a demo of the control and have him back up his claim and show you the advantages before deciding on either control. There will be a learning curve with the new control make sure its worth the downtime and lost profits while getting as familiar with it as you are with Fanuc.

+1000 Yesterday I signed the PO for a Okuma Genos lathe. We had 2 other lathes we were considering. One was a Tongtai the other a Doosan Puma. The only reason the Tongtai was in the mix was because of the service and help through the entire process of buying a new machine we recieved from their salesman and their service tech. How they lost out was I wasn't as familiar as I was with that brand as opposed to the others and it was a fear the lathe wouldn't last quite as long as the others. Every other piece of equipment here is old and tired a few of the MTB have closed so getting parts can be a bear to say the least. This left it between the Puma and Genos. The Puma was approx. 14% cheaper and although the service techs for the Doosan here are a lot more plentiful and arguably more knowledgable the owner of the company that distributes the Doosan is such a arrogant xxxx it cost him a sale on a new machine. Take care of your customers first and foremost and you will do just fine in business.

Almost never hear anyone ever mention Doosan on here but for the price they are hard to beat IMHO.

There is no picture but my guess is when you define your leftover material lie to mcam and instead of putting a 3/4 ball 3/8 rad tell the system you used bigger cutter (ie .85 ball .425 rad) and it will make the 1/4 work in a larger area and help with a lot of blending issues.

Can you not just install the HLE on their boxes?

Just use standard 2d contour then in depth cuts put your draft angle. Instead of creating new geometry if your model doesn't have the chamfer drawn in use your egisting edge along with a negative stock value to create the chamfer size you need.

My lathe has decided to act up and I don't even know where to start to fix it. I can reset it but can't find what is causing the problem in the first place. Here are the problems. I have a 12 station turret that spins on a 5 count between stations. On the third count a signal is supposed to be sent to start the deceleration of the turret rotating so that on the 5 count. It will index properly and the pin will lock it into position. Well if I index any more then 2 positions at a time the signal to slow down is being missed causing the tool to miss index and lock out the machine. So I can reset that which is in the back of the turret. But now that I can reset that my OD turning tools that point down the Z axis can't make it to the center of the spindle and I know my offset is correct because if I send it to a X position and measure the location of the tool to the centerline of the spindle it is good. Checked all my limit switches they are all functioning. Checked all my proximity switches and they all light when they are supposed to but for some effin reason both the problems above keep happening. Any ideas? I should add that in the 6T its impossible to display the ladder on the screen to see where it is getting stuck in the orientation. I have read up online about this EPROM reader I should be able to hook into my rs-232 but from what I see it will only record and print out my ladder diagram as opposed to being a physical ladder I can use to chase my relays and timers. Finding information for a control that is 10 years older then the internet is PITA

Look at the Dormer A520 ADX HSS TiN Stub Drills. (4XD). They are a very cheap performance drill. We get the 1/4" ones for $22 each and in A36 we get around 750 holes running them 1900 rpm @18 ipm with no peck and with the split point design there is no need for a spot to start the drills. If you call there tech Marty at 1-888-336-7637 he will be more then happy to help you out or suggest a better alternative for your needs.

Rich the page and section I was referring to is referenced through the pdf in the link I posted

It is a Mitsui but we also have a 87 Hitachi lathe slow as chit but makes chips. Even with the new lathe we are getting I will keep the Hitachi on the floor also for quick one off pieces while the new lathe runs production. The Mitsui pays the rent and wages here the other machines pad the bosses pockets which is why we aren't looking to scrap it till its dead.

The oil leak costs us $75 a week we only run 5 days. The paying off the machine I was referring was increased productivity and the increased profit that would bring in. I started here recently and we are expanding and moving to a bigger shop. When I pick the machine up to move it I am addressing the leak then no reason that I see to strip the machine down now when it will need to be dismantled to move it which is planned for august

I couldn't agree more this thing is rotting from the inside out. Even all the fittings on the hydraulic system hydraulic lines and manifold blocks need to be replaced thankfully they are bspp standard and not jic so I should be able to get by just replacing orings but right now it leaks at a rate of over a gallon a day.. This machine has been rat bagged so bad over the years. But it runs a production job for us like clock work. May not be the fastest machine but when you look at a newer machine cost then factor in the savings on time it will be a long time before the savings pay off the cost of the new machine. I would much rather keep it doing what its doing use that money drop another machine on the floor and pump the work through that while the Mitsui putzes along.

Recently my forge broke down. I had to pull the fly wheel off and send it out to have remachined. The wheel is 66" in diameter. What needed to be done is machine out the press fit brass bushing and clean out the bore in the casting minimal clean up. Remachine a new bushing Nitrogen freeze the new bushing to press fit it in the wheel and then rebore the bushing adding grease grooves and extending the preexisting grease lines through the new bushing and minimal cleanup on the shoulder of the wheel to make it perpendicular to the bore. The dimensions of the bore in the flywheel are 8.5" diameter x 16" deep. The bushing with material I supplied had a 6.875" diameter ID with a H8 class fit. The shoulder that needed to be remachined was a 16" diameter. Taking in setup and machining approxamitely how long do you guys feel this should have taken to set up and machine complete?

Its a 1990 Hitachi Sieki HS3A and as absurd they told me the last set they sold was $2500 for the pair and $50/ spring and I would need 4 and would get back to me as soon as they heard back from Japan. Which is just scary I was using Mitsubishi tooling for so long and with the tsunami found it hard to get inserts and bodies most of the time. I can only imagine the turn around time. I have been dealing with Mitsui in New Jersey for the last 3 weeks already. Definitely agree to replace the springs as well but as to what I was going to make them out of I was thinking something on the line of Impax Supreme for its long wear life with only being 33RC which is way softer then my holders. Right now the arm still functions but I can't use the ATC for heavier tools they drop out of the grippers which is why I want to replace them to keep operators from hand bombing tools in and out all day and to limit operator error. I have also contacted Tac Rockford out of Illinois and although there website lists my mill and they make the grippers when I called customer support she told me she didn't know what I was talking about call Mitsui so I filled out the online form with the part number for the gripper which is 2655 and just waiting to get a email back. Just trying to avoid the downtime of tearing the thing apart to reverse engineer because it turns into does the effort justify the means needed to save the above cost. But now granted the owner doesn't want to hear that he just says "you're a machinist make them".

Does anyone know where a good after market place is to buy the grippers? I spoke with the OEM and their prices are absurd and the downtime to shut the machine down while I reverse engineer and make my own makes about as much sense. Thanks in advance These are the 2 finger gripper style that that slides straight to grab the tool before pull and turn.

per side

Isnt M53= G98 and M54=G99. I forget what the actual entire block should look like I haven't been fortunate to touch a okuma in years