A follow up: So after all of our time and effort of asking questions, looking over specs, researching, etc. We settled on Extreme Cut 290 from Quali-Chem. Never would I have thought that I should shout out praise about coolant. But... This stuff rocks. In the past two months I have gained cycle time, reduced cutter usage, and get MUCH better finishes. If any of you are looking to switch coolants, give these guys a shot. 25 years cutting chips and I have not been this amazed by too many things. But, this stuff does what they claim it does. By the way, I am NOT a paid spokesperson. Just an amazed customer. Cheers,

I have done a bit of calling around local shops I know and quizzing them on their coolant. 2 places I spoke with were running the Ho-Cut until recently. They claimed they had guys developing skin rashes from it. Any of you that run it have these issues. The water softener was recommended by our Blaser guy, John. However, what you say makes more sense to me than his claims. We run pretty much around the clock so our coolant doesn't sit idle very long. Even when we are shut down our filtration/aeration systems stay on. Running around to a few shops today to test the coolants they are using and gonna chat with the guys that are up to their elbows in it daily. Hopefully, can get some good feedback. Also, chatting with Leupold Stevens. They just switched out their entire plant a few months ago to this Quali-chem. So far they all have good reports. Might have to run over there also. Thank you all for your input. I will let you know what I found out.

Coolant has been an issue that I have fought with many times over the years. It is becoming a major problem for us again. About 6 years ago we were using Hangsterfers and had pretty good luck other than the staining that eventually started happening. When we bought our Multus, the Okuma folks strongly recommended Blaser Vasco 1000. I used Blaser years ago so I decided to give it a go. We had great luck with it. It is expensive to buy and even more so to dispose of. But, it worked well. Now we can't get the 1000 any longer and they changed us to 5000. The 5000 has been a real problem. Staining parts, eating the paint off of machines, etc. It also seems to separate quite bad. No matter what I have tried, it keeps separating. We are running water softeners since Idaho water is notoriously hard. That didn't help the separation issues. Several other shops in the area are having the same problems. Now we have the supply house, which so strongly recommended Hangsterfers all those years ago, telling us that the vasco is garbage... everyone has issues with it... blah blah blah. They also now are recommending Quali-Chem. They stopped carrying Hangsterfers a few years back because they said it was junk. However, at the time they were carrying it, they claimed it was the best. Hard to trust a coolant salesman. Anyway, we were given a free sample of Quali-chem and charged one of our mills with it. It seemed to work well. But, the smell was terrible. It gave most of us headaches. They claim that smell will dissipate after a few days. We ran it for about 2 weeks until we couldn't take the smell any longer. Supposedly, the smell issue is fixed. At least thats what they say. Not sure about trusting them on that. We won't know for sure until we put it in service. So, Im looking for advice from folks here. We have 2 turning centers, 3 vmc's, and 2 Multus'. We machine steel and aluminum. Any thoughts or recommendations on a good coolant? Thanks in advance.

Yep, that's it. Thanks. Cheers

I feel like a noob asking this. However, I can't remember where the setting is in X3 to have the default length and diameter offsets be the same as the tool number. Thanks in advance.

I am new to lathe programming and am limping along trying to get a part up and running. I need to do a left handed 14mm x 1 thread. How do I get X3 to give me the option of spindle rotation. Also, what does "Negative X" mean on the thread shape parameters page? Thanks in advance

Great, the one day I decide to actually work and I miss out on a size large. That settles it, I'm not working anymore.

You are mirroring the curves so you can create a 2 dimensional "containment boundary" within which the surface toolpaths will be generated as you get a couple more pages into the lesson. Hope that helps. And welcome to the forum! Cheers,

quote: When I got mine I called Branson ( http://www.bransonultrasonics.com/) +1000 Did the same thing here after trying several other avenues first. They should be able to help you out. Cheers

Personally, I indicate most everything in. But, when I do use an edge finder, I use this one. I was never able to trust an edge finder until I bought the Schmidt. This one seems to be more sensitive than the Starretts I have owned. Heck, it has lasted me 15 years so far. The double ended ones don't like to come out of a collet without stretching the spring way out and often breaking it. Cheers,

Ok, now it makes sense. Thanks gang! Cheers,

What do you mean set the "as code" button? I think you mean type it in the comment box on the tool parameters page. That seems to work to help me find the spots to put it. Just wondering if it could be done more easily Thanks

Being a mold maker. I have never really spent anytime programming production parts. So, with that disclaimer please don't make fun of me too bad. I need to do some short run production with a manual index fixture. I need to be able to program in several "planned stops" or dwells with the spindle stopping so an operator can reach in and index the parts. My machine has an option to read an M1 just for this. And it works just fine if I put it in the program by hand. But, my problem is this. How do I get Mastercam to post it out in the program? I don't need it between every operation. And the program is getting rather lengthy to read through to put them where they need to be. Oh, I am still using V9 as well. Thanks in advance.

I have found when drilling hardened material that it is best to not center drill so deep that the major diameter of the hole created is as large or larger than the drill. Just drill deep enough to clear for the web of the drill. If the corner of the drill is what contacts first, you will wear the corner off the drill and cause it to bind and break. I drill hardened H13 (52-56RC) quite often with HSS drills down to .020 diameter. +1 on the stub drill. Cheers,

Hijack alert Desmotom? Would that be short for Desmodromic Tom? Hijack off.

And here I thought you just saved a bunch of money on your car insurance by switching to Geico. Cheers

I have the same concern. I took the lanyard off of my flash drive and it is attached to my SIM. Of course two days after I did that I left my flash drive in my pocket and ran it through the washing machine. I was joking around about chaining it to an old license plate or something like the gas stations do with their bathroom keys. Maybe an old trailer wheel. I know I am not much help. Just piped in to let you know you're not alone. Maybe we will get some good ideas from the gang here. Cheers,

Using V9.1 here as well. I play a bit with X trying to learn. However, the jobs have to come first. Plus, I compounded the problem by buying Solidworks a couple months before X came out. So as I try to learn Solidworks and transition to X it is a bit overwhelming. Moto teh only can learn so much at a time Cheers

Actually, it was a solidworks 2006 file and v9 only has the 2005 .sldprt translator. It should be good, I sent it back to your email as mc9. Cheers,

Check your email. Cheers,

+1 to Micromoldmaker about the Hurco VM1 I was in the same boat a year ago. Looked at alot of them and was about to buy a Haas Mini. At the last minute someone here suggested looking at the Hurco. After a bit of questioning that is what I bought. I have had one service issue immediately after I got it and the factory was outstanding. I have been absolutely satisfied with it. This may be hard to believe. But when I bought it and wanted to put it through a test expecting to be let down I did a very complex surface program that I had run on a brand new Okuma MX 45 at my last employer. I actually got a better surface finish, just as acurate, and 12 minutes shorter cycle than the 2 hours 20 minutes that it ran on the Okuma. I build molds and run mostly steel and graphite. For the money, I don't think you can do any better. Should you go this way and are in need post help, just let me know. Cheers,

Razor, Take a look at Gesswein, Artco, or DME. They all appear to be made by the same company with each of their respective logos put on it afterward. Go for who gives you the best price. I can't vouch for the others but Gesswein should drop one in your shop as a demo if asked. These are also nice in the respect that you can plug in reciprocating tools into the controller as well so no more counting on consistent foot pressure on the control pedal. All of these manufacturers will sell diamond and ruby stones that fit directly onto the handpiece for real agressive work. Or you can put on the stone clamp and use something like the Gesswein "RA" series stones or my personal favorite the "AM-8" series from Boride Engineered Abrasives. Cheers,

Scotthead, I don't know if this will help or not, but.... In my experience (disclaimer), I spent my early burning months trying to really comprehend the burning process. In doing so I found that the EDM technical manual put out by POCO EDM (its free, too) was a great help in understanding what happens in the spark gap and what really happens when off time, on time, etc are adjusted. Then spending time reading through the machine manuals to learn at what increments the machine could be adjusted. Most of the folks that I apprenticed under would probably still deem edm as some black art form to get it to run. Hence, they almost always used the same settings. One for roughing, one for finishing regardless of burn size, etc. And, although I agree that flushing is important, it is possible to overflush. ie, the hydraulic effect when trying to force an electrode into a burn faster than the oil can escape or causing the electrode to flex or move. Also, if the oil is moving too quickly through the burn area then the voltage is fluctuating too much which doesn't allow effective burning. etc. Get the EDM technical manual here Also, if you look through EDM Today magazine there are some good books advertised. Hope this helps Cheers,

I do all my work on MasterCam. Cavity core separation, mold design, electode design and all my machining. (no mold plus here I had it at the last place I worked and only used it a few times. I found too many places on complex partlines that it just didn't work correctly. It is probably better now). I have done some pretty complex molds with it and have had little trouble. I am considering purchasing solidworks at present. But will see how much the design side of X improves first. Cheers

I will assume these are standard square keys in a straight shaft. According to machinerys handbook.... For milling keyseats, the total depth to feed the cutter from the outside diameter of the shaft to the bottom of the keyseat is M+D where M is the chord height based on key width and D is half the key width. Therefore the formula is M=1/2(shaft diameter-the square root of (shaft diameter squared-key width squared). Or M=.5(2.4375-the square root of [5.9414-.3906]) M = .0407 half of key = .3125 depth is .3532 If you can interpret my translation of the formula I would strongly suggest you double check my math after the day I have had. Hope this helps. cheers