Renishaw Probe Wanted

[POSEIDON 5-AXIS]

I was wondering if there was anybody out there who might have a Renishaw probe sitting in a cupboard, unused.  I would love to buy a new one, but they are just sooooo expensive .I am looking at one for our machine, to inspect and probe our work, as our machine is basically sitting in a tin shed, and temperature plays a huge role on our CMS Poseidon.

 

Looking at the Renishaw website, i'd be after maybe one of the following models:

 

RMP40

RMP40M

RMP60

RMP60M

*RMP600

 

 

[GoetzInd]

Even if a brand new probe and receiver/board fell from the sky you are looking at $3,000-$8000 to interface it to your machine (depending on what type it is). That being said, I would definitely bite the bullet and get one though. A OMP60 would do you just fine unless you're doing really tight stuff. No need for the "R" models unless you have a really large machine. "R" is for radio.

 

Mike

[Guest]

No need for the "R" models unless you have a really large machine. "R" is for radio.

 

Mike

Or you are probing behind something where you lose LOS.

[The Cathedral]

We have an OMP60 that an operator rammed into a part and absolutely obliterated. You can have it for free as long as you pay for shipping. Makes an ok paperweight/conversation starter.

[htm01]

We have an OMP60 that an operator rammed into a part and absolutely obliterated. You can have it for free as long as you pay for shipping. Makes an ok paperweight/conversation starter.

they take them in on trade for rebuilds

[crazy^millman]

We have an OMP60 that an operator rammed into a part and absolutely obliterated. You can have it for free as long as you pay for shipping. Makes an ok paperweight/conversation starter.

 

I did that with a OMP40 and Renishaw rebuilt it for 1/3 of the price of a new one. That company has had a backup one for many years. :whistle:

[The Cathedral]

I did not know they did that. We haven't replaced it yet so I'll have to check that out.

[jlw™]

Even if a brand new probe and receiver/board fell from the sky you are looking at $3,000-$8000 to interface it to your machine (depending on what type it is). That being said, I would definitely bite the bullet and get one though. A OMP60 would do you just fine unless you're doing really tight stuff. No need for the "R" models unless you have a really large machine. "R" is for radio.

 

Mike

 

 

Speaking for the OMP60, when you say "tight" do you mean precision factor or in tight locations where a signal may not send properly?  I had 5 Grob's that had OMP60s in them.  I always write probe routines to check parts that are critical or for long runs where operator complacency can be an issue.  As long as the batteries are fresh my data was always within microns of CMM data.  Now that I'm thinking of it, every single Renishaw that I've collected data with and had the opportunity to compare the data to a CMM was always within microns or tenths.  If you do get a probe setup, please use it for more than part pick up.  You can collect data and store it to text files in the control.  If you define your dprint correctly you can import it directly into Excel to look like you want it to.  It's a costly tool, use it.  If you only want part pick up I recommend buying a Haimer 3D täster.  Once you get the hang of it you can actually use it faster than a probe for part pick up.

 

I have a few probe habits that have served me well that I see neglected every where I have ever been, working or visiting.

 

1.  At the beginning of every shift wipe the ruby and lens to remove debris and the film that coolant mist forms and check the receiver lens.  Take this opportunity to inspect the stylus.  Many coolants dissolve the epoxy they use.  Especially the carbon fiber styli.

2.  Change the batteries every two weeks, the cost of a couple AA batteries is insignificant against bad probe data.

3.  At least once a month check taper of the holder and clean it with scotch brite.  For O models check the lens of the reciever, for R models knock the chips/debris off the receiver.

4.  When setting up, don't just indicate and calibrate. Check against a know standard as well.

[Sticky]

Speaking for the OMP60, when you say "tight" do you mean precision factor or in tight locations where a signal may not send properly?  I had 5 Grob's that had OMP60s in them.  I always write probe routines to check parts that are critical or for long runs where operator complacency can be an issue.  As long as the batteries are fresh my data was always within microns of CMM data.  Now that I'm thinking of it, every single Renishaw that I've collected data with and had the opportunity to compare the data to a CMM was always within microns or tenths.  If you do get a probe setup, please use it for more than part pick up.  You can collect data and store it to text files in the control.  If you define your dprint correctly you can import it directly into Excel to look like you want it to.  It's a costly tool, use it.  If you only want part pick up I recommend buying a Haimer 3D täster.  Once you get the hang of it you can actually use it faster than a probe for part pick up.

 

I have a few probe habits that have served me well that I see neglected every where I have ever been, working or visiting.

 

1.  At the beginning of every shift wipe the ruby and lens to remove debris and the film that coolant mist forms and check the receiver lens.  Take this opportunity to inspect the stylus.  Many coolants dissolve the epoxy they use.  Especially the carbon fiber styli.

2.  Change the batteries every two weeks, the cost of a couple AA batteries is insignificant against bad probe data.

3.  At least once a month check taper of the holder and clean it with scotch brite.  For O models check the lens of the reciever, for R models knock the chips/debris off the receiver.

4.  When setting up, don't just indicate and calibrate. Check against a know standard as well.

 

[jlw™]

 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/m3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Products/~/Scotch-Brite-Ultra-Fine-Hand-Pad-7448?N=7581709%203294245750%203294245752&rt=rud&MDR=true

 

And you don't have to kill it, just knock the gunk off.

 

How do you do it?

[Guest]

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/m3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Products/~/Scotch-Brite-Ultra-Fine-Hand-Pad-7448?N=7581709%203294245750%203294245752&rt=rud&MDR=true

 

And you don't have to kill it, just knock the gunk off.

 

How do you do it?

 

Scotch brite tool tapers...  

[Sticky]

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/m3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Products/~/Scotch-Brite-Ultra-Fine-Hand-Pad-7448?N=7581709%203294245750%203294245752&rt=rud&MDR=true

 

And you don't have to kill it, just knock the gunk off.

 

How do you do it?

 

There isn't any gunk on my tool tapers. If there was, I'd be looking to remove the possibility asap.

 

I do get some coolant mist on tool tapers that sit unused for a long time in the matrix, I use brake clean and a clean shop towel to clean them.

[Newbeeee™]

Scotch brite tool tapers...

and if it's REALLY stubborn, you can use sand paper.

[jlw™]

Well, apparently I have sinned against the perfect Internet gods. I knew better than to say anything but thought since probes were brought up I'd throw in what I see neglected so often, actually every where I've ever worked. apparently gently cleaning the flaky crap some coolants leave with ultrafine scotch Brite is just insane And drastically affects the gage line of the tool holder Within seconds. Maybe I should've added "gently" to that The first time. Apparently the simple use of scotch Brite means you're bearing down on it with a side grinder. Good lord. Now apparently I said sand paper.

 

it's served me well for 15 years but I guess a good clean shop towel and brake cleaner is the answer to a badly neglected tool holder. Guess no one's ever noticed how freaking hard you have to work with scotch Brite to actually alter the surface of a hardened tool holder or maybe I'm the only person ever to have to clean one good.

 

How about offering suggestions along with the criticism... or do you just want to poke and not admit you do it too? I do know how fun it is to jump on some one when every one else is. Or at least say why you think ultrafine scotch brite is so bad for a holder taper any way.

 

No wonder this forum has such a bad wrap on so many other forums and among users on other cam software forums.

[Bob W.]

Well, apparently I have sinned against the perfect Internet gods. I knew better than to say anything but thought since probes were brought up I'd throw in what I see neglected so often, actually every where I've ever worked. apparently gently cleaning the flaky crap some coolants leave with ultrafine scotch Brite is just insane And drastically affects the gage line of the tool holder Within seconds. Maybe I should've added "gently" to that The first time. Apparently the simple use of scotch Brite means you're bearing down on it with a side grinder. Good lord. Now apparently I said sand paper.

 

it's served me well for 15 years but I guess a good clean shop towel and brake cleaner is the answer to a badly neglected tool holder. Guess no one's ever noticed how freaking hard you have to work with scotch Brite to actually alter the surface of a hardened tool holder or maybe I'm the only person ever to have to clean one good.

 

How about offering suggestions along with the criticism... or do you just want to poke and not admit you do it too? I do know how fun it is to jump on some one when every one else is. Or at least say why you think ultrafine scotch brite is so bad for a holder taper any way.

 

No wonder this forum has such a bad wrap on so many other forums and among users on other cam software forums.

I admit, I use Scotch Brite and don't see any issues whatsoever.  If done manually with a little care, no problem.  I wouldn't use a wheel on a buffer though, and I know that isn't what you were referring to.  Tool holders wear out and over time the tapers become dinged, fretted, etc... and the wear inflicted by Scotch Brite wouldn't even be measurable.

[Newbeeee™]

^^^ +1

I have also sinned and was only joking about the sandpaper.

Sorry jlwright - no offence meant.

[Bob W.]

What about sand blasting?  Tumbling?

[Newbeeee™]

I read that the tumbling is how they deburr collets when they make them - there's actually only a handful of collet manufacturers and they all do the same I believe.

Sand blasting would be too harsh imo - light soda blasting would be okay I would bet.

[The Cathedral]

I don't clean mine at all. I think the buildup makes a more solid taper-to-spindle contact, kind of like a poor mans  Big Kaiser Big Plus.

 

In reality, we use red Scotch Brite all the time and nobody has died yet.

[Tyler Robotson]

Well, apparently I have sinned against the perfect Internet gods. I knew better than to say anything but thought since probes were brought up I'd throw in what I see neglected so often, actually every where I've ever worked. apparently gently cleaning the flaky crap some coolants leave with ultrafine scotch Brite is just insane And drastically affects the gage line of the tool holder Within seconds. Maybe I should've added "gently" to that The first time. Apparently the simple use of scotch Brite means you're bearing down on it with a side grinder. Good lord. Now apparently I said sand paper.

 

it's served me well for 15 years but I guess a good clean shop towel and brake cleaner is the answer to a badly neglected tool holder. Guess no one's ever noticed how freaking hard you have to work with scotch Brite to actually alter the surface of a hardened tool holder or maybe I'm the only person ever to have to clean one good.

 

How about offering suggestions along with the criticism... or do you just want to poke and not admit you do it too? I do know how fun it is to jump on some one when every one else is. Or at least say why you think ultrafine scotch brite is so bad for a holder taper any way.

 

No wonder this forum has such a bad wrap on so many other forums and among users on other cam software forums.

 

Welcome to the forum

[Guest]

Well, apparently I have sinned against the perfect Internet gods. I knew better than to say anything but thought since probes were brought up I'd throw in what I see neglected so often, actually every where I've ever worked. apparently gently cleaning the flaky crap some coolants leave with ultrafine scotch Brite is just insane And drastically affects the gage line of the tool holder Within seconds. Maybe I should've added "gently" to that The first time. Apparently the simple use of scotch Brite means you're bearing down on it with a side grinder. Good lord. Now apparently I said sand paper.

 

it's served me well for 15 years but I guess a good clean shop towel and brake cleaner is the answer to a badly neglected tool holder. Guess no one's ever noticed how freaking hard you have to work with scotch Brite to actually alter the surface of a hardened tool holder or maybe I'm the only person ever to have to clean one good.

 

How about offering suggestions along with the criticism... or do you just want to poke and not admit you do it too? I do know how fun it is to jump on some one when every one else is. Or at least say why you think ultrafine scotch brite is so bad for a holder taper any way.

 

No wonder this forum has such a bad wrap on so many other forums and among users on other cam software forums.

 

 

I used to use an abrasive (Scotch-Brite IIRC) on holder shanks until I found that they were corroding very quickly after that - reasonable quality holders (Tecnara, Techniks, etc...) mind you. No junk.

 

My suggestion would be (you'll need to figure out a good interval) is to go to the tool magazine, remove the tool from the pocket, wipe out the pocket - wipe off the holder. Next, using a towel/rag with light oil I would wipe the taper before inserting it back in the tool pocket.

 

Personally, I don't want corrosion on my holders. That corrosion can transfer to my spindle taper and I definitely don't want that.

 

Tons of shops do it. I just don't recommend it.

 

This forum has a bad rap because it doesn't tolerate pirates, nonsense or trolls. If you go back and look at the quality of help that is given here, you'd be hard pressed to find better information anywhere. Granted it's Mastercam centered but it's certainly not limited to that. There' s many FANUC, OSP, Mazatrol, and Renishaw experts in here and the information they share FREELY is priceless.

[Newbeeee™]

Foggy - that's real interesting about the fact of after scotchbrighting, you found that the holders corroded quicker.

What's the thinking - there was a 'protective' oxide type layer on the holder from the factory, and then you removed it?

Curious.

[Guest]

Foggy - that's real interesting about the fact of after scotchbrighting, you found that the holders corroded quicker.

What's the thinking - there was a 'protective' oxide type layer on the holder from the factory, and then you removed it?

Curious.

You know... I can't say for certain. The shop I noticed it in didn't have a microscope and it was before I had one at home so... I'm thiking the holder manufacturers put something on the holders to prevent corrosion but I can't say for certain. All I know is the holders that had scotch-brite treatment corroded MUCH faster. Could have been a number of factors but we started wiping the holders like I suggested and the corrosion stopped and never appeared on new holders. You have to do both the pocket and the holder though. ESPECIALLY is you have through spindle coolant. I want to say our interval was 1x monthly. We just put it in with the PM and it didn't take the machine out of service.

 

Anecdotal? Maybe. I just know corrosion was no longer a problem.

 

HTH

[Mick]

The corrosion post-scotchbriting could have been a form of "micro" crevice corrosion. Minute scratches leaving deposits from something on the scotchbrite pad.

 

I've seen similar things happen with people trying to restore vintage automobile and bicycle parts. The parts are scotchbrited, and they look nice and clean. A few weeks/months later, corrosion on the scotchbrited areas starts to show up.

 

Foggys suggestion of wiping and cleaning with oil is a good practice. Time consuming, but worth it. Sucks when you have two horizontals with 360 tools each though... LOL

[Guest]

...

Foggys suggestion of wiping and cleaning with oil is a good practice. Time consuming, but worth it. Sucks when you have two horizontals with 360 tools each though... LOL

That's why we tied it in with PM's. That was the least painful option. We only had 120 Tool chains.