need help on kurt vise

[PoNyCaR50L]

Im currently looking a kurt vise.

 

I dont really know which one to choose.

 

model.

D688

Hd690

Hd691

 

Currently hd690 are back order. 8 week....

so I ask my vendor about hd691. But it almost double price but cant really see the difference on their website.

Anyone know why hd691 is more pricy.

 

Also. Anyone using d688. Does this vise is strong enough. I will be using it on a hurco vm10i.

[Rick46]

we have several of the D688 models where I work at and they are very solid vises for steel, Mold Max, Aluminum, and other materials as well.

[Rocketmachinist]

Has anyone ever tied orange vices? They look pretty good also.

[PoNyCaR50L]

Orange vise looks really nice. but cost much more than kurt.

 

A 6x16. Seems to cost over 1300usd.

[jlw™]

Second attempt to reply to this:

 

I've used tons of d688 and d810's. With the exception of a few 10 inch vises that's been it for me regarding vises. The Kurt 688 will be as strong as any other 6in vise as far as you'll be able to tell. Good jaws and part geometry will determine how good a vise will hold assuming it's working properly. If you buy a 688 or 810 let me know. I have models you can adjust opening to fit part or model soft jaws.

 

Do me a favor and don't beat the handle tighter with a deadblow.

[Colin Gilchrist]

Check the specs on the 691. Some of the Kurt vises are ground on the sides, and don't have flanges that stick out. This means you have more mounting options, both in terms of density, and being able to accommodate thicker blocks of material by laying the vise on it's side.

[civiceg]

The 691 has the nut on the other side. For pallet changers where loading would be on the opposite side, but the solid jaw would still be on the same side as your normal vises on the front pallet. Glacern machine tool also makes some nice looking 6 inch vises. They are cheaper than Kurts iirc. Also, Shars has a Kurt copy of the 3600v (ground on all sides) but they are on backorder too. We are waiting on 4 vises from Kurt now....easily been 8 weeks.

[#Rekd™]

I am using the Kurt 3600V on our VMC and it works great.

[Rstewart]

ORANGE Vise FTW!!

 

Those will definitely be our next vise purchase.  I haven't personally used them, but have heard from many satisfied users.

[MIL-TFP-41]

The 688 on your vertical would be a good fit. We have countless variations of them....the design has evolved over the years...first with a 6" capacity, then 7.5...now 8.8" with the 688. All are solid.

[Pilot Plant Supervisor]

We use a lot of Kurt D60 and 688 here, but Take a look at Chick One Lok. We have a pair on one machine and they are hard to beat. If I buy any more vices for CNC, they will be One Loks.

[jeff]

We use a lot of Kurt D60 and 688 here, but Take a look at Chick One Lok. We have a pair on one machine and they are hard to beat. If I buy any more vices for CNC, they will be One Loks.

+1 for the Chick One Lok

We also have Kurt 688's on one of our mills. They are the old stand-by vise tried and true and are great for VMC's. But the Chick One Lok vises are so much better (about $1,000 each).

[PoNyCaR50L]

Thanks for all info. I think I will begin with 2x 688 considering price is good.

Is it a good idea to get a torque wrench for the vise to get always same pressure.

[jeff]

Is it a good idea to get a torque wrench for the vise to get always same pressure.

Only if you have squishy parts and if the clamping force will influence the part in some way.

Otherwise no, I've never used a torque wrench.

When I have tiny parts and need very low clamping force, I made a homemade wrench that is a lot smaller and has a knurled knob. This way I don't crush small stuff.

[Bogie2]

I don't know if you are still in need of that Kurt HD690, but I know that Production Tool Supply has them in stock. I spoke with them yesterday for our company. There aren't many left, but they have the 688 and the 690. The # is 800-366-2600. Good luck to you!

[djstedman]

 

 

Only if you have squishy parts and if the clamping force will influence the part in some way.

Otherwise no, I've never used a torque wrench.

When I have tiny parts and need very low clamping force, I made a homemade wrench that is a lot smaller and has a knurled knob. This way I don't crush small stuff.

 

I can assure you.. after seeing some operators and their casual use of hammers on vice handles.. ALL parts can be squishy with a big enough hammer..

 

TBH this is why the majority of our work we don't use vice's for anymore. In order to lock down processes and make them more stable getting rid of vices was one of the most important steps to remove operator error from the equation.

[jeff]

I can assure you.. after seeing some operators and their casual use of hammers on vice handles.. ALL parts can be squishy with a big enough hammer..

 

I agree, you can't teach common sense, but you can show them where the door is so they can wheel their toolbox out.

[djstedman]

While that is totally within line with my own thinking I am reminded of the old sign an old boss had..

 

Rule #1: The Boss is Always right.

Rule #2: When the Boss is wrong refer to Rule #1

 

I find in my current circumstances that management want to hire unskilled low wage labor, so rather than fight I have just decided to focus on making all systems idiot proof.

 

It can be annoying, but in the long run it gives me a new skill that is becoming more and more valuable as more and more shops want to hire the talentless and inept, rather than pay for skilled help.

[htm01]

so rather than fight I have just decided to focus on making all systems idiot proof.

 

the problem is they keep making better idiots!

[civiceg]

Torque wrenches have a place and we use them frequently due to the above issue. One guy cracked the "nut" on a 8 inch kurt, after years of hammering away on it and years of being told not to. Its not practical to make fixtures for low quantity runs and torque wrenches are dirt cheap. Best way is to put an indicator on the part and set the torque wrench to where you start bowing the part. 

[djstedman]

I agree in many cases a vice is still the best solution.. and I have used an indicator when tightening a vice cutting thin aluminum or plastic parts to make sure the part didn't get distorted many times.. personally I haven't had much luck with torque wrenches but perhaps that was due to the parts being so delicate that we were trying to use it with.

 

The indicator trick on the top of the part works regardless of the part.. unfortunately it requires a bit of thinking in order to work correctly.

 

So far as the fixtures being worth making or not.. it all depends on the job.. if the cost of the fixture is a small fraction of the cost of the part and it eliminates the chance of scrapping the part then the cost of not making the fixture can often far exceed the cost of making one. Then again we frequently are working on parts in the 5 to 6 figure range with tolerances down to tenths.. I don't tend to get a lot of argument when I tell them I am making a fixture.