milling inserts

[rex miller]

does anyone know of a cutter and insets that last

or holds up better

im using sandvik and carboloy.

and they cost $10.00 to $13.00 each.

i want a cheper insert or one that is good for

the money$$$$$$$

[DavidB]

I'd check feeds speeds coolant?For the material your cutting. Before I changed away from Sandvick.

 

[crazy^millman]

I would look at my coolant and make sure you are usign the right mixutre and that you have good surface speeds and feeds. Yuo are suign soem of the best so without Material and what SFM and FEED you are using kind of a shot in the dark as to what we can do to help you. If you are cutting SS then you need a SFM at 450 and lower if cutting CRS then problay 900 sfm and lower and if cutting aluminum 2200 sfm and lower should all be safe. If your inserts are rated for .003 to .008 per insert and you are pusking axial and radial loads on the insert 50% more than what they recommned this can cuase problem. The point being alot of thing to thin kabout before saying what one thing can make it go better.

[Hardmill]

+1 david

The sandvik should be all you need.

What kind of mat?

 

PEACE

[Fig sign]

I can tell only about steel .

I use Seco ( I am great Seco fan ).

Good and last forever,but expensive .

But because they last for so long ,I don`t regard it expensive solution.

Milling steel I never use coolant ,only blow air .

Iscar is cheaper,last less but also long and feeds slower , but also good and produce less noise .

 

HTH

[HEAVY METAL]

CARBIDE INSERTS AND COOLANT A BAD MIX UNLESS CUTTING GUMY MATERIAL THAT HAS A TENDENCY TO STICK TO THE INSERT. COOLANT HAS A TENDENCY TO FRACTURE THE INSERTS RESULTING IN LOWER INSERT LIFE. THE HEAT GENERATED FROM MILLING SHOULD LEAVE WITH THE CHIP AND THE PART SHOULD REMAIN COOL IF CUTTING PARAMETERS ARE CORRECT.

[Fig sign]

_______________

THE HEAT GENERATED FROM MILLING SHOULD LEAVE WITH THE CHIP AND THE PART SHOULD REMAIN COOL IF CUTTING PARAMETERS ARE CORRECT.

________________________

 

+1000 .

aND TiI coating likes some temp .for work it stays even better then fluid cooled .

And the thermal strike from fluid really kills

inserts .

Work with air cooling is the must for hardened steels ,if for not hardened steels you can find

inserts for water cooling ,for hardened steel only air !

 

On my way

[Dan Schnars]

Seco has some nice stuff, Walter has some good stuff too...

[rex miller]

IM CUTTING STEEL AT THE RECOMMEND SPEEDS AND FEEDS

BUT I RUN COOLANT. IS THIS WHERE IM MAKING MY MISTAKE?

AND I TAKE .100 TO .150 DEEPTH OF CUT

ALL HELP IS THANKED....

[DavidB]

STOP YELLING

 

Try dry with air.

Look at your overhang and job clamping too.Try make it as ridged as possible

[crazy^millman]

Cut that bay dry. I was thinkign you were cutting inconel or monel or some cast 440 SS harderned to about 45rc. I would be at about 900 sfm and .008 per tooth feed wit ha .1 to .15 depth of cut. The SFM willl be the key here. You need ot see what works best for the parts you are doing to weig hthe time to the insert cost. If running at 300 sfm but take 5 times longer to do the job then I would run at the 1200 sfm to make the time saved offset the insert cost. Inserts are cheap if you start losing days trying to save some money on inserts. I had some jobs I would use a box of inserts a every 2 parts. The old way they were doing it took 16 hours a part my way took 3 hours a part. We use to do 40 parts at a time. I was saved the company something like $8,800 dollars time you figured out the insert over the 10 times they had ran the same job. I caught crap at frist for eating up insert until that number poped up. I know guys that like the push it till it breaks and back it off 5% that is all fine and dandy if doing 1000 and 1000 of the same part and replacing machines every 3 years if running low grade machines and every 5 years if replacing highgrade machines. I was pushing the machines dont get me wrong but was doing so in a way to be productive yet safe for the machine at the same time. It is a hard to balance that when you got the hurry the hell up in one ear and the why you spending so much on inserts in the other ear but just stick by your guns and it will all work out.

[Fig sign]

Read this thread

 

HTH

[mike_f]

I cut alot of M2 and M3-II h.s.s. (annealed state) and have done many side by side tests. I have not found a tool that can compete with Iscar's Helimill, Sandvik comes in about twice a year with a new grade they want me to test but Iscar usually is somewhere around 2 or 3:1 in the tool life category. +1 coolant bad. Their ic950 is a great all around high speed grade or I use ic250 (softer substrate) if rigidity is an issue. I also find many people tend to slow down when they should be speeding up.

[rex miller]

thanks for all your help

[Fig sign]

Seco ball nose 25 mm 2 round inserts rad 6 grade F30m Pocketting take -off 0.5 mm (weak machine )

S3500 rpm F5000-6000 mm/min on mold steel )

Iscar also good but slower .

Where they are really good is their solid end mills with IC900 coating .

Superb !

[Shady]

I do alot of face milling flame cut mild steel plate..4 inches thick using a 45 degree 4" face mill. I have had great luck with Tungaloy NS540 cermet inserts. I run them dry..680 rpm...22 ipm 3 inch wide cut x .200 deep. I get about 5 hours of steady milling from each edge...i pay around $6.00 per insert...4 edges per insert...cutter holds 5 inserts...get a very good surface finish. HTH ~~~~Shady

[Platinum]

Cutting with just air? I say NAY! Try oil mist coolant. It smokes a little, but really helps insert life in about any steel. Never get to cut anything soft like aluminum or brass Usually very hard tool steel 50HRC+. You can even just use straight saffron oil. not quite as good, but lots cheaper. Oil has no coolant properties, but adds lubricity.

[tracy]

advice on sandvik, try 4040 grade for heavy maching, 1025 for finishing ops.

 

also, ask your sandvik rep for advice, mine has saved me a ton of headaches and money by explaining grade differances and chip/tooth rates.

[Hardmill]

All you need is chip displacement, air alone

is adequate. Todays cutters are designed to

put the heat in the chip. Blow the chip...there

goes the heat. Coolant of any type will only

create stress fractures at your cutting edge.

 

PEACE

[Fig sign]

__________________

Blow the chip...there

goes the heat.

__________________

 

+1000 .

As I told before s3500 F6000 for 2 inserts feed per tooth 0.85 mm this is very thick chip and it absorbs most of heat .

Never had a problem with part heating .

[mig]

I using ISCAR inserting 0.75 dia ball for s/finishing surfases after rouging by flat cutter. Running 10000 rpm 100 inch per min or more . No coolant

[ricky_fire]

Hi,

 

I have been using Sandvik indexable cutters & Fraisa solid carbides. But they are getting higher

priced yearly. Someone recommended to me Taegu Tec & Guhring respectively to bring down cost economics. Dear friends plz advise if it is worth making the change

[Eazy]

+100 for Sandvik.

 

Slower, older machines I dont think it matters so much.

 

Once you start talking 8000rpm + I'd be using sandvik 90% of the time.

[rex miller]

I CUT (DRY) FOR 2 DAYS. I DIDNT CHANGE MY

INSERTS COMPARED TO COLANT.. MADE A BELEAVER

OUT OF ME. THANKS TO THAT HELPED