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Leveling Machine


jspangler
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A level smile.gif

 

A box square is handy so you can check all axis are square.Level table in both directions first.Then check Z axis with table.Try make sure the machine is not on two different parts of concrete floor and secure.

Also check with a dial indicator on an arm that the spindle is square to table just like on a conventional Bridgeport type mill.

Good luck be patient it's not a 5 min job.

 

cheers.gifcheers.gif

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Guest CNC Apps Guy 1

Level actually does not make a BIT of difference. What matters is if the machine is square. No sag, twist, or crown.

 

Oh, you should get a 21675ap1l.gif Starrett 199Z Master Precision Level to do it right.

 

James teh "leveled" more machines than I can count... biggrin.gif

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How big of a machine? Big machines can easier get a "twist". How accurate you need to be? True "machinist's levels" are VERY accurate and have very fine gradations. Check diagonally across the table when adjusting. Also recheck perodically after running for a while, primaiarly checking leveling feet that feel "looser" that the rest, signifying floor settling.

 

thats M2c

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Good Eve,

 

If your machine has 6 or more leveling pads

3 to 4 could be used for tramming the spindle

to table.

So use the previous described level,(to earth) then check maintenance book to see if the casting that supports the spindle can be flexed to

improve spindle to table tram.

 

Tony G

CNCiT Precision Machine - Hudson,NH

X Beta Site

Almost Employed Senior Programmer

N.E Massachusetts - Southern New Hampshire

_________________________________________

End mills and tooling are like The "AMMO"

And coolant and chips are like the enemy

Under your boots as you advance in the

Manufacturing Battle

--------------------------------------------------

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I'm with Tony here for sure. I usually get the table 'level' with machinist level [buy one from MSC, the Starrett one will make you choke when you see the price] using the four outboard pads [the four corners] and then 'bend' then machine to get the spindle square to the table using the 2 middle pads

 

C

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We use the Starrett level.

Oh if you've never done it before, you will need patience as well.

biggrin.gif

The bigger machine,the more the leveling pads.

I always try to get the 4 corners level first then "tweak" the rest of the pads tight.

And depending on how heavy the table/turret is, I usually move the table to the limits of each axis and re-check when I think I am level.

HTH ang good luck.

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Good Eve,

 

Level to earth is going to be good as long

as the machine isnt on a hill.

 

Important:

Spindle/Table tram

 

Tony G

CNCiT Precision Machine - Hudson,NH

X Beta Site

Almost Employed Senior Programmer

N.E Massachusetts - Southern New Hampshire

_________________________________________

End mills and tooling are like The "AMMO"

And coolant and chips are like the enemy

Under your boots as you advance in the

Manufacturing Battle

--------------------------------------------------

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Cool trick our installer used to check for twist / warp in the new Integrex. He set two levels at 90 degrees and pressed them into a couple blobs of modeling clay till level, then moved the Z axis and watched the bubbles. This method should also work well with a long travel mill.

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John just drive out to North Hollywood NTMA saturday and borrow my Machine Level if you need I will be teaching at the NTMA.

 

If you decide to you need to let me know before sat at 7am to bring it with me.

 

If you want email or call it's all on my site. or call Cad-cam consulting and have them find me in the field.

 

Or you can come to Valencia to get it tommorow.

 

Jay

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That is the proper way to level a 20' to 100' lathe though I have only seen one guy do it on Lathe that long. Make the head right then you put the levle on the cross slinde and have to keep the bubble right down the length of a machine. It suck real bad and is a pain but seen to many put the level at eahc end or down the section and then wodner whey they have problems cutting long parts. It is also a good idea to take a transit with sit glasses and shoot a center line down the spinde to the tail stock to make sure the machine has no been installed with the tailstock out of wack seen this beofre on a long machine. Yeah does not apply here just sharing information is all.

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I use a master precision level from MSC page 1355 . cost $129.00 (has the .0005 per foot grad. that is required) One tip, I did not see anyone mention is how to check the accuracy of the level. First, once the machine checks "level" do not forget to rotate the level 180 degrees. If it then shows an error, that is how much your level is out. Leveling takes time...

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Guest CNC Apps Guy 1

You have to calibrate the level each use. Set it down @ either 0 or 90 Deg. Make note of the bubble's position. Rotate 180 Deg. Adjust until they match up. Then you're ready to level.

 

HTH

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  • 4 years later...

The advantage to making it level instead of just square is that the earth provides a convenient and extremely accurate reference for level. If all aspects of the machine are level there is a pretty good chance it is square as well. Once it is leveled the individual pads can be tweaked to compensate for minor squareness issues.

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quote:

the earth provides a convenient and extremely accurate reference for level.

One of the challenges we have had leveling larger machines (bridge mill with 20ft of travel) is that we found that level is not constant....throughout the day it changes a bit.

 

These are way handy for the bigger stuff....

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