Easy fix: Toolbox > grab hammer > smash

All the answers you seek lie in the land of Configuration settings. First question: Settings > Configuration > Shading > uncheck "translucent" Second question: Settings > Configuration > Backplot > adjust the "opacity" sliders

Open the Z2G utility, select File > open and open a file you had already zipped, then Command > extract

No progress on the bug fix that I've heard of.

The nwadrs(strf, feed) line assigns a new string prefix to the feed variable. In order to use it, you have to define the string strf in the post. strf : "F" #String for address F

We just ran a boatload of 321 parts. Using a .433 Iscar Sumo drill (carbide tip), no spot, high pressure coolant at 180 SFM and .004 fpr. For carbide I would say your speed is way too low. No spot if you can get away with it or do like Gcode pointed out and check your drill angles. Coolant thru is a huge bonus.

Your A value cannot be bigger than 2x the B value for that type of insert. Adjust the A value, or choose a different style such as the double-end radius insert.

EDIT: nevermind I'm dumb

And the automatic centerpoint tool... I never knew I needed it, but now I'm having a hard time remembering how I ever got by without it.

It works in X9, and it works pretty damn good. That was one of my biggest frustrations and now I can program a part with almost no wireframe. Since it seems like you missed out on the public beta, X9 is getting released properly sometime in the next few weeks.

It is a constant diameter, however that doesn't matter, because it does not have to be one to use axis substitution.

You could always write a chook to plot out the points.

Whenever there is an asterisk * before a variable, it forces the post to output the value of that variable, no matter what. A lot of variables are modal and won't output if they didn't change from the last time they were called. Putting * in front of feed means it will output the feedrate on every line of the drill cycle. For example, this is what it might look like without the asterisk: G98 G81 X0 Y0 Z-1. R.1 F25. X1. Y1. G80 And this is what it will look like with the asterisk: G98 G81 X0 Y0 Z-1. R.1 F25. X1. F25. Y1. F25. G80

These are some of the general things we keep in mind whenever taking on any kind of plastic job. These may or may not pertain to your job or you might already do it all but maybe it will help someone else-- We try to order stock that is at least an 1/8" to 1/4" thicker than the overall height of the part. That way we can machine everything "top down" on five sides while still having a thick base to keep the part rigid. Then we usually machine a pair of soft jaws that has the contour of the part for the final side. This way, the soft jaws hold the part firmly all around instead of focusing it on two contact points. Often, we'll machine a plug or insert if the part has a cavity. This goes inside to stop crushing, bending, or flexing. Using sharp tools is critical and uncoated tools are best. While you aren't going to get any galling with coated tools like you would with aluminum, the coating takes away the sharp edge just enough to make a difference. Tooling that's been used before, even on aluminum, should be avoided. If you're looking for dedicated tooling, I suggest Ultra Tool (www.ultra-tool.com) If you're having problems with the part sucking up, try using a down-cutting one- or two-flute endmill. This forces the plastic down into the vise instead of trying to pull it out. Harvey Tool has some good offerings. Shallow DOC's work best with heavy WOC. I usually default to .050" and adjust depending on how it holds up and the type of plastic. Again, working "top down" this keeps the stock as rigid as possible by only removing mass where you are working. The long DOC, 5% stepover dynamic paths don't work so well with plastic. The extra time it takes can be made up by going several hundred inches per minute. Using coolant can be iffy, and can be a big no-no depending on the type of plastic, especially if your customer is medical. Some plastic types will absorb coolant, which will make them swell and shrink and will contaminate them. If you're cutting a plastic that has a low thermal coefficient of expansion, a good method is to buy a cooler full of dry ice. Let the stock get cold and cut it using a cold-air gun. If you have problems with burrs, instead of banging your head against the wall, send them out to be cryogenic deburred. Sometimes it can be cheaper to just send it out than to spend the time chasing it around.

I have a lot of experience with the plastic, but none with a vacuum chuck. I take it using a vise is out of the question?

I have mine set up so I can remote desktop into the computer that has the license open, save it and exit.

It is a pain in the a$$ sometimes, but I wouldn't call it sub standard.

I can say with first-hand experience that yes, it's coming. I'm currently working with CNC to get our Okuma LT2000EX-MY twin-spindle twin-turret lathes up to par. There is actually a part running right now that was programmed with it. I'm not sure how wide the field of supported machines is, though, and I'm inclined to believe it's not much more that one. ^^^^

We've got 16 Okuma's. They all leak. Even the brand new ones.

Also, you can set individual names for each misc I or R for the misc ops, for each op. So you can have labels that only show up when doing a stock advance, and labels that only show up when doing stock transfer, etc. It's helpful to keep things clean.

Misc values are called out with every toolpath. Make sure you're reading the values from the correct op.

Ah, the infamous "toolbar state has gone wonky" bug. You went poking around in your workspace config, didn't ya? It's a bug, and they know about it, but I haven't seen or heard any progress on it. For now the recommendation is to make a copy of your workspace so you have a backup in case it goes south. Unfortunately now that you've lost it, it's gone for good. Reload a default workspace, tweak it to your needs, save it and save a copy of it. http://forum.mastercam.com/Topic3065.aspx?Keywords=toolbar http://www.emastercam.com/board/topic/79249-toolbar-states/?hl=toolbar

As long as you learned from your mistake!

Pay your maintenance dammit. Contact your reseller for updated sim codes.