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Egg Shape bore


ATG
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Ok the egg shaped bore question. It seems that when ever I mill bore a hole using master cam and a fadal 6535 and also 1620 I get an egg shaped bore. I understand that this is pretty standard but I would think that .0005 should be the worst that it gets. For me that is not the case. I'm getting .001 to almost .002 sometimes. I'm leaving about .007 for my finish cutter and I’m making 2 passes @ zero. Is there a trick to holding better numbers than what I’m getting......

 

 

Thanks

 

Seth

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Dude, Fadals suck. That being said, egg-shaped circles are typically caused by one ballscrew that is sloppier than the other or one axis accelerating faster than the other; I'd run a ballbar test on the machine and see what she says.

 

In the meantime I'd slow the feedrate waaaay down and see if that helps. You may wish to post 90 degree arcs and turn the exact stop on to see if that helps, too.

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Couple of things you might try.

 

If you're using R's try switching to IJK's

 

Slow your feedrate down.

 

Sometimes on small bores that the tool is fairly close to size, if you go too fast the ball screws do not have the time or space to make the necessary corrections.

 

A ball bar test will certainly tell you the best your machine will be able to do and perhaps allow for some maintenance to make things better if it is a machine issue.

 

and if push comes to shove.

 

Using a boring head or reamer if size allows

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Well never........It’s less than a year old....at least the 6535 is..... I guess I should have mentioned that. I've heard that breaking the circle up into points is suppose to work better, but no luck with that one. Is there a tolerance somewhere that I could tighten up a bit........

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We had a VMC15XT at Specialized Machine that started doin that...the service tech came out & replaced the inverter ($$$$$$) two weeks later it started doing the same thing...I got pissed, opened the rear cabinet to check the techs work and SURPRISE!!! the wiring harness connector made a loose connection. We powered down, locked out, made the connector engage more snugly.

No more egg shapes..the original inverter was fine, but compumachine woudln't take back the replacement part...worth a look, eh?

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Could be:

 

Ball Screw - Backlash in the screw

Thrust Bearing - Backlash / loose

Bearing holder - Not bolted down tight -

Motor Coupler - Loose

Following error - Servo tuning incorrect -

Gibs - Too Tight on one axis vs another - or too loose

Lack of oil to ways? Check for oil film on ways.

Incompatible oil vs coolant - disolves oil on ways - causing 'sticking' and wear.

 

Start at the basics - use a indicator and start 1st by checking backlash in each axis, at multiple locations along travel - if it is consistent, check adjustment of thrust bearings, if it varies, check the ballscrew.

 

Work from there.

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quote:

Well never........It’s less than a year old....

You might check that the machine is level (a quick and easy check). With lighter machines I have found that when they get out of level that they tend to twist and cause problems simular to what you are experiencing.

 

 

,

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quote:

Well never........It’s less than a year old....at least the 6535 is..... I guess I should have mentioned that. I've heard that breaking the circle up into points is suppose to work better, but no luck with that one. Is there a tolerance somewhere that I could tighten up a bit........

We have three Fadals less than a year old and one about three. They all had to have the gibs readjusted often. Our maintainance guy said the old ones were the same way. He checks/adjusts the new ones right now about every two months and as they get older he'll be able to stretch that out to about six months. But even when they're correct trying to hold roundness on a small hole is a challenge. If your gibs are adjusted you can play with your gain but if it gets set too high you'll start seeing the vertical "nervous" lines.

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"You might check that the machine is level (a quick and easy check). With lighter machines I have found that when they get out of level that they tend to twist and cause problems simular to what you are experiencing."

 

+1 if you sat the machine down ran it for a year maybe good to check and see if it settled at all. The concrete its on maybe thin, and all though a japanese machine half the size out weighs it theres alot of weight there.

 

Also just curious 2D contour, whats your tolerance in Mcam?

 

I would go with the backlash errors and the fact it is a FADAL, not to knock them to hard because one of the Big Mz with that much travel would set you back a new building, a shop truck, and health insurance for a couple years.

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