Looking for a source for steel boring heads to braze on our carbide drops. Not sure if anyone has done this here. I did a Quick search online and came up empty. We have a large supply of 10" long bars we have been cutting down. I'd hate to throw the 6+" drops away. I pretty much have ammo cans full of Ø3/8 Ø1/2 Ø3/4 x 6"blanks.

Use G93 Inverse Time "When combined linear/rotary motion exists. Each combined linear/rotary move has a different distance. Thus the corresponding time values change for each code block, even if it does not change from the previously programmed feed value. Invoking Inverse-Time Mode A G93 is necessary to declare the feed mode on the initial move containing rotary motion. General Rule: If a G93 is necessary to invoke inverse time mode, a G94 is necessary to cancel it. This means that the first move of a sequence of normal XYZ linear moves with no rotary A/B/C words must have a G94 and an F that is interpreted in inches per minute. G93 lets the user follow a more complex tool path when linear/rotary axes are involved. lets the user have better control of the rotary's motion. This gives a more precise part with a better surface finish." this was Copy n pasted from notes.

I'd use Dynamic peel down the center leaving stock then swarf to finish. shouldent need "blade ex-pencive-pert" for that geom.

UOS we almost always use 3/64 carbide ball endmills at .005-.015 deep (looks lovely).

always gonna get geom. sometimes it does pick up the text. which is still worthless IMHO. I believe Mastercam's "CAD" (less the addition of TTF) is the same as it was in clearcut V3.1 (30yr old ewwness) "its not a CAD software" seems to be the most frequent work around.

We do parts similar to this from uhmw. OP1 we machine from your view shown complete from solid (holding by .100 ) leaving the window solid from the minimal thickness down, OP2 flip into step soft jaws (using inch torque), finish overall height then add 2 clamps from jaw area and finish window thru. minimal distortion. less than .002 free state over 4" here. HTH and GL

If you want lines, that's how you get lines. (Depth cuts at angle will give you nice arcs)

Every once and a while, I'll right click and "send to zip" easy backup of my shared folder. Saved my xxxx more than once.

Move the drive geom to "top of stock" its stepping down at the angle from where the geometry exists. (at that angle it would be non-existent before it even reached the part)

Looks like you should be working with surfaces instead of solids. make surfaces from solids, then trim to curves where needed.

Ahh the feeling you get when you simply offset some lines and hit enter twice. hit escape to go do something else and the last one never took the offset because you didn't check the accept button.

No you don't. Trust me.

Solved!

I guess 5Axis Swarfing would to this with fanning. swarf.mp4

WhatsNew.pdf

FixtureWorks has models. CarrLane has models TombstoneCity has models as well And my favorite, McMaster also has them.

take your mplmaster compare to your current and make "your" changes in the new one.

FILE, HELP, "ABOUT MASTERCAM" IS TO THE RIGHT (BLUE i)

could try a large value in "use fixed segment length" under tolerance.

Use caution, they (Advent) make special inserts for external threads, Don't use internal thread inserts on external threads.

Sometimes mine will act up, It will claim my extrusions wont work, para-solid kernel interface error. shut down restart and they magically work again. weird.

goto , file, options, & keyboard shortcuts, there you can reset all your "HOT" keys to whatever.

First thing that comes to mind would be to project a series of .003 offset lines to the side of your model. Then its simple 2d contour.

Another real simple one. TURNERS_CUBE2.stp

3d with multi-axis, I agree. Could not rationalize the huge price tag for BE, The software already does blades. and quite well at that.